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Master Thesis

Étude de la morphodynamique et du profil d'équilibre d'une plage de poche macrotidale

Abstract : In this study, data from a 12 years topographic profil serie and significant wave height from the numerical model PréviMer is analysed. The objectif is the comrehension of morphological variations and equilibrium conditions on the macrotidal pocket beach of Porsmilin (Finistère). First, the fluctuation of incident wave energy is obtained with the analysis of wave height. Then, bulk statistical method and empirical orthogonal eigenfuction (EOF) are used on the beach profil data to characterize the morphological variations. Finally, morphological and hydodynamics variations are correlated via empirical variation models based on Yates et al. (2009). A correlation is found between seasonnality in the incident wave energy and morphological variation. A double bar dynamic is also observed and a inverse dynamic between the upper and lower beach part.
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Master Thesis
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Submitted on : Monday, July 7, 2014 - 3:56:30 PM
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  • HAL Id : dumas-01020013, version 1



Klervi Hamon. Étude de la morphodynamique et du profil d'équilibre d'une plage de poche macrotidale. Océanographie. 2014. ⟨dumas-01020013⟩



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